Located roughly 25 km from Gurugram, Sohna is seen by many as a natural extension of millennium city. The name of the town, some say, has become ubiquitous because of the eternally busy Sohna road, which is gradually emerging as a hub of corporate offices, high-rise condominiums, and upcoming real estate projects. Sohna, in many ways, can be seen as a microcosm of Gurugram. It is a town in making, a town of contrasts. The road leading up to the town is peppered with under-construction buildings and abandoned projects on one hand, while newer universities and condominiums flank the other end. However, beyond this maze of glass and chrome buildings, and the quest of scripting a new story, the town is also struggling to hold on to its history, which remains buried within the town like hidden treasure.

Sohna is a town that has played host to many rulers over time. They have left behind many remnants in the shape of historical structures that now lie abandoned, only some kilometres off Gurugram. One such treasure of historical structures can be found in a nondescript village called Saap ki Nangli. The village can be reached through a small detour off the main Sohna road, and comes across as an ordinary village at first. However, its history sets it apart. Unknown to most outsiders and some locals, the village is dotted with a hub of tombs deep within it. Located on a small hillock within the village, reaching the tombs is no less of an adventure. To reach the tombs, one has to walk through the dusty serpentine lanes, which are non-motorable in patches. After covering a distance of two-three kilometres though these winding roads, one finally gets a glimpse of the tombs that stand in sharp contrast to the private farmhouses that are located just a stone’s throw away.

Lal Gumbad

The bigger of the two sets of tomb complexes in the village is identified as Lal Gumbad by local residents, and derives its name from the red sandstones that make up the tombs. Standing desolate on a hillock under the shadow of the Aravallis, the tombs have an air of calm around them and are surrounded by bougainvillea flowers in different shades and dense vegetation in parts. Multiple narrow pathways — dusty and covered with thorny bushes — takes one to the complex that comprises of two tombs. The bigger of the two tombs has a smaller domed pavilion at its entrance supported by eight pillars which leads into the portion covered by a bigger dome. Intricate carvings make up the surface of these pillars, which continue to demonstrate the red colour that gives the complex its name. On the inside, however, the chamber is in a dismal state and has become a haven for bats. The inner façade of the dome has multiple alcoves, which allow passage to natural light.

However, deep cracks run through the tomb.

Experts say that the tomb demonstrates influence of the Lodhi period. “The tombs are similar to the tombs created by the Khanzadas of Mewat. The height and the double-storied nature of the structures demonstrate an imperial Lodhi visible in monuments in Delhi. Many local leaders would often replicate the same architectural style,” Shikha Jain, convener INTACH, Haryana chapter, said.

As per the listing of the state department of museum and archaeology, the monument demonstrates rubble masonry work, and can possibly be traced between 1475-1525 CE.

The monument received protection from the state government in December 2018. However, there is no visible improvement in the state of the tombs. Except for a sheet of paper, there is no visible board that informs visitors about the background of the structures, and there is little sensitisation about the tombs among local residents.

“The place hasn’t changed in the past 100 years or more. The village is 400-years-old, and elders from the village say the gumat (tombs) have remained the same. My father, my grandfather, and even their forefathers used to say that the tombs have stood in our village for centuries,” said 55-year-old Gangaram, whose house is barely metres away from the tomb.

For him and many others, the only reference to the tomb is its connection to Muslims. “This could be a graveyard or a tomb. Who knows? All I know is that the place has some connection to Muslims,” Gangaram said. He also said that around three years ago, some Muslim people had made efforts to clean the tomb and offer prayers, only to be pegged back by other residents of the village. “Local residents were obviously not in favour of the place being used as a mosque,” he said.

While Gangaram was opposed to prayers being offered within the structure, he said the village would benefit if the place was treated as a tourist site. “We don’t mind if the place is cleaned and improved. This will only benefit our village. No one should oppose a move to beautify the place. Moreover, children climb on tomb of it and play, which is dangerous,” he said, pointing towards the graffiti scribbled by children on the top of the tomb.

Kaala Gumbad

Gangaram, however, didn’t seem very hopeful about the other set of tombs in the vicinity. Locally known as Kaala Gumbad, these comparatively smaller tombs are located a few hundred metres away from the Lal Gumbad. However, the Kaala Gumbad is a pale shadow of it’s red cousin. Unlike the Lal Gumbad, the twin tombs that make up the Kaala Gumbad complex have deteriorated thanks to human intervention.

The complex has been taken over by locals who have houses surrounding the complex. As per local residents, four houses together share the tomb complexes. When HT visited the two tombs, we found that they were being used as a cattle shelter and a hay store respectively. Another tomb-like structure has also been constructed and added to the original structure.

“We call the structures gumat. Two of our buffaloes are tied in one tomb. We use the smaller tomb to store hay and food for the cattle,” said 15-year-old Kuldeep, who lives next to the tomb complexes.

Prem Lal, another resident, said villagers had “repaired” the tombs for use. “People had their houses in the vicinity of the tomb. So, they occupied the tombs, which fell in the centre. They repaired the tombs with cement and have maintained it over the years,” he added.

Government intervention

In December last year, the state department of archaeology and museums took the Lal Gumbad under protection after a months-long wait. “The Lal Gumbad has been under state protection since December, and the gazette notification of the monument has also been released,” Banani Bhattacharyya, deputy director, department of archaeology and museums, said.

Despite the move there is hardly any visible improvements. Bhattacharyya though said work on the site was underway.

“The monument has been assigned to a site in-charge, who is in the process of putting up a file. We need to do landscaping and get the site fenced. The monument is surrounded by a jungle around it, and all of that needs to be cleaned. The model code of conduct has kicked in now, and things are happening slowly. However, development plans will soon be implemented,” she added.

The Kaala Gumbad, however, might have to wait a much longer while for a fresh lease of life. Due to its occupation by families and its entrenchment in litigation, the department was yet to take it up for protection.

“Kaala Gumbad is occupied by some families. At the moment, we are not focusing a lot on monuments that are mired in litigation. Our aim is to take those monuments under protection that can be easily taken under our fold. Eventually, we have to take all these monuments under protection, but the process is a slow one, and we will gradually get there. The department is short-staffed right now, and one can’t work on so many things simultaneously,” Bhattacharya added.

First Published: Apr 18, 2019 15:15 IST

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